The Seongsu-dong aesthetic: Discovering Gen Z's Instagrammable playground

[ABOUT TOWN]: South Seongsu

Seoul is often viewed as a modern, trendy metropolis filled with high-rise buildings, bright billboards and zooming subways. But behind its stylish facade is a more down-to-earth, people's place that goes less noticed. Depending on the part of the city, busy-working locals find solace and joy in sizzling pork belly in an intimate barbecue restaurant, soju shots under a tent, coffee on the roof of a decades-old building and walks along the city's hidden trails. Each dong, or neighborhood, has its own unique history and remnants of the past, making Seoul a checkerboard of cultures and atmospheres.

In this series, the Korea JoongAng Daily examines both the past and present of Seoul's neighborhoods, offering recommendations on how to spend a day there like a local, including what to see and where to eat.  

Caffeinated drinks at Frolla, an Italian coffee at Seongsu-dong, eastern Seoul [LEE JIAN] 

If Instagram were a neighborhood, it would look a lot like Seongsu-dong.

Ranked the world’s fourth-coolest neighborhood by Time Out in 2024, this area in eastern Seoul brims with viral pastries, some 90 pop-ups monthly, trendy fashion and beauty ateliers, and celebrity sightings.  

It is also home to one of the largest K-pop agencies, SM Entertainment. Right next to it sits one of the country’s most expensive apartment complexes, Acro Seoul Forest, valued at around 10 billion won ($7. 21 million).

But the neighborhood wasn’t always this snazzy.

People are queuing at fashion platform Zig Zag's pop-up store in Seongsu, eastern Seoul [JOONGANG ILBO] 

Two decades ago, Seongsu was a declining industrial district from the 1960s. Under the district’s urban development plan in the 1990s, Seongsu began to regain vitality, especially with the creation of Seoul Forest Park and the construction of upscale residential complexes. Factories were repurposed into galleries, cafes and cultural complexes. Artists moved in, followed by young entrepreneurs. However, some of the old trades still remain — most noticeably its handmade shoe parlors — making Seongsu a representative semi-industrial town in Seoul.

Like many other areas that have risen to fame quickly, Seongsu now faces the looming shadow of gentrification. Rent prices in major commercial blocks have doubled, according to an April report by the JoongAng Ilbo. This jump occurs despite the district’s gentrification prevention measures, first implemented in 2015, which designated parts of the town as a “sustainable development zone” and restricted franchises and conglomerate-run brands. In 2023, the district government expanded these zones to cover most of the neighborhood.

Thanks to those efforts, Seongsu has remained the city’s trend nucleus for some 10 years and counting.

People are queuing at a K-beauty store in Seongsu-dong, eastern Seoul. [JOONGANG ILBO] 

Much of its reputation stems from the southern side of the neighborhood, located below Seongsu Station and closer to the Han River.

Beware, introverts and social media skeptics. Visiting this part of Seongsu can feel like physically walking through Instagram or TikTok’s discovery tab. On weekends, be ready to navigate through packed crowds.

But that, after all, is the essence of the Seongsu experience.

The point of exploring this part of the neighborhood is to lean into it: do the things everyone else is doing, snap the photos everyone is taking and taste the food everyone is talking about. It’s the best way to enjoy this corner of the city — whatever your age — and to get a glimpse of how Korea's Gen Z lives and plays.

Even if you usually roll your eyes at social media hype, you may still find yourself happily biting into a viral pastry or posing playfully in an instant photo booth. Who knows? Love it or hate it, it’s bound to be an experience.

Get those calories. You’ll need them.  

Steamed asparagus and soft-boiled eggs with sabayon and bechamel sauce at Danish eatery Mitbord [LEE JIAN] 

Ease into the Seongsu experience by starting the day slightly away from the crowd, near Seoul Forest Station.

About a 10-minute walk away is a Danish cafe-slash-restaurant called Mitbord Seoul. The spacious eatery has Nordic decor with ample natural light. Serving brunch and baked goods, some of its signature items include the Danish Rye Bread Plate (14,000 won) with rugbrod (traditional Danish rye bread), cheese and a boiled egg, and the Sourdough Pancakes (15,000 won) topped with mascarpone, candied cherries and seasonal fruit.

Most other menu items change every few months. Not all are strictly Nordic, but its rye bread — dense, earthy and slightly tangy — brings a true Danish flavor. The dishes are overall rich and dairy-heavy without leaning too savory, and all are incredibly aesthetic.

Smorrebrod, Danish open-faced sandwich, with whipped ricotta and tomato jam, topped with fresh tomato slices, cheese shavings and dry black olive bits at Danish eatery Mitbord [LEE JIAN] 

Currently on the menu is smorrebrod, Denmark’s iconic open-faced sandwich, topped with either tomatoes (10,000 won) or Korean melon with spinach (11,000 won). The tomato version is crisp at the bottom, sweet and rich on top with tomato jam and whipped ricotta, and finished with fresh slices sprinkled with cheese shavings and dried olive bits.

The Asparagus (19,500 won) is a luscious plate of steamed asparagus accompanied by two half-boiled eggs in a rich sabayon and béchamel sauce, given a spicy kick via a dash of Tabasco and topped with pickled plum bits. It comes with lightly toasted sourdough for dipping into the creamy sauce.

Another excellent option nearby is An Hongmao, a gourmet Vietnamese spot run by chef Jung Myung-hoon, who previously worked under celebrity chef Anh Sung-jae of the Netflix survival show “Culinary Class Wars.” Jung trained at Anh’s Mosu, a three-star Michelin restaurant in Seoul.

Abalone Cold Pho at Vietnamese diner Anhong Mao [LEE JIAN]

Many Vietnamese spots in the city tend to be predictable — with beef or seafood pho, spring rolls or bun cha. But An Hongmao has more character.  

Inside the warm, wooden interior on the basement floor, with friendly staff, the restaurant identifies itself as Hanoi fusion. Its signature dish is chicken pho (10,000 won). Seasonal and special menus rotate every few months, such as the Abalone Cold Pho (16,000 won), a refreshing summer dish that balances acidity and spice. Its toppings mix crunch and chew with mungbean sprouts, cucumber slices, shrimp and abalone.

The rice rolls (4,000 won), filled with a thick sausage instead of the usual shrimp or stir-fried meat, balance subtle flavors of meat, pickled vegetables, rice noodles and a crispy spring roll shell folded into a scroll. The in-house peanut sauce, with its salty and nutty flavors, is a crowd-pleaser. Pickled celery slices, served alongside the main course, are a simple yet creative addition that rounds out the meal with a sweet and salty kick.

Shop 'til you drop

Most popular street and indie labels made in Korea have brick-and-mortar stores in Seongsu, including Tir Tir, Musinsa, Tamburins and Ader Error — to name a few global favorites.

Near An Hongmao is Facade Pattern, a slightly high-end fashion brand best known for its ankle-length coats. Structured and minimalist, they showcase a polished and slightly masculine silhouette. Their blazers and collared shirts also carry a similar shape.

For those who prefer a more street- or vintage-inspired look, try the Paramount Pickers. It is a secondhand American vintage shop carrying brands like Dickies, old Gap and Polo Ralph Lauren, and an eclectic collection of caps in particular.

Sienne, also in Seongsu, is a local indie label for cozy, cottage chic wear — a popular aesthetic among young Koreans these days. It is best known for holiday sweaters with random but cute graphics, like a koala or pony, and cardigans with classic Scandinavian patterns.

For gifts or souvenirs, drop by Repertory, which features a charming collection of handmade Korean crafts like ceramics, fans, glass cups and accessories made by local artisans and artists.   

More carbs and caffeine

If shopping for your favorite brands hasn't already brought you to Seongsu’s busiest street — Yeonmujang-gil — these snacks will.

Jayeondo Salt Bread is a viral takeout-only bakery that only sells its namesake product.   

Jayeondo Salt Bread's Seongsu branch [LEE JIAN] 

Salt bread, for those who have yet to indulge in one, is a savory butter roll that hails from Japan, called shio pan, which incorporates extra salt into the dough. It started going viral in Korea after the Covid-19 pandemic, kicking off the country’s interest in international desserts.  

Jayeondo is already a TikTok-famed food outlet. Its product doesn’t have the typical crispy bottom — but the fluffy bread and buttery saltiness are worth the hype. It is served warm in packets of four (12,000 won).

For those in need of a respite from the Seongsu buzz, visit Anderson C. Cafe, a vintage furniture shop that also serves coffee. Anderson C. carries designs from all over the world, including American, Spanish and Scandinavian makers, and brands like Yamagiwa, Thayer Coggin and Smilow Design. Its CEO, Anderson Choi, is an avid furniture collector and designer, best known for styling the group residence of K-pop act NewJeans.  

Frolla cafe in Seongsu-dong [LEE JIAN] 

For a more quirky, international option, try Frolla, an Italian cafe run by a Korean-Italian couple.  They bring Italy to Seoul with menu items like crostas, paninis, espresso tiramisu and latte e menta with a shot of espresso.  

Olive Young gets really fancy  

Olive Young N Seongsu [LEE JIAN] 

Olive Young, a cosmetics store chain, may be ubiquitous in Seoul, but this one stands out in its own league. The five-story Olive Young N Seongsu, which newly opened last November, is packed with every imaginable K-beauty product and label — from makeup and skincare to low-calorie snacks, weight loss supplements, hair and body products, electronic beauty devices and over a dozen varieties of sunscreen and facial masks.
Every item has product information in English and can be tested for free.

There is also a makeup studio and a 30-minute beauty consultation session available, where a professional recommends products tailored to each visitor's skin tone and personal style.

Men don't need to feel left out. There is a section specially curated for them, interestingly named “Men’s EDIT.” It includes a “brow bar” where an employee will trim and shape male eyebrows for free.

Say cheese!

Instant photography studio Pixx [LEE JIAN] 

Create memories at one of Seongsu’s wide range of instant photo booths — and don’t pick a normal one.  

A typical instant photo booth snaps several waist-up shots, from which the picture-taker selects four to be automatically printed on a 15-centimeter (5.9-inch) vertical strip.

In Seongsu, however, there are tall wooden boxes where visitors can step inside for a full-body portrait (Pixx, 8,000 won for two copies); a setup with a camera placed behind fish tanks so photos capture both people and swimming fish (Photo Objet, 7,000 won for two copies); booths that print portraits against a newspaper-style background (Made Fannie, 6,000 won for one copy); and oversized strips nearly 10 times larger than the usual handheld kind (Reverie, 25,000 won for one copy).

For dinner? Just have what you want.  

Suyuk (boiled pork belly) and nakji bbokkeum (spicy stir-fried octopus) at Korean diner Sigoljib [LEE JIAN] 

There is no menu at Sigoljib, an unassuming Korean diner inside Ttukdo Traditional Market. Just shout out anything you want to eat, and its two women cooks will whip it up. As long as it is a Korean dish, they promise to make just about anything — jeon (fritters), kimchi jjigae (stew), galbi jjim (braised beef), panfried fish or ramyeon — whatever you like or want to try.

Customers can also show pictures of their desired dish if language is an issue. If the kitchen doesn’t have the ingredients, one of the cooks will slip out to the market and get them. They will also adjust flavors, like spice levels, upon request.

After over 40 years in business, time is a testament to Sigoljib's taste.

Sigoljib inside Ttukdo Traditional Market [LEE JIAN] 

Over this reporter’s two visits and nine dishes at Sigoljib, nothing fell below expectations. There is zero fuss — no twists or surprises — but instead, each dish captures its intended, original essence.

The cooks, who also take the orders, are joyful and friendly. Generous portions, especially for soup and stew, are another plus. The price makes it a must-try. They don’t tell you how much the dishes cost when you order, so it becomes a bit of a surprise at the end. But prices are guaranteed to be cheaper than other restaurants in the city. Just keep tabs on how much beer or soju you are drinking, as alcohol can quickly hike up the bill.

After a day of chasing Seongsu’s trends, it is the perfect way to wind down and realize that this neighborhood isn’t only about what’s new and flashy — but also about what endures.

Reference
Written by LEE JIAN [lee.jian@joongang.co.kr]
Provided by Korea JoongAng Daily

※ Picks respects the rights of all copyright holders. If you do wish to make material edits, you will need to run them by the copyright holder for approval.