North Seongsu: Trendy but not trending (yet)

Subjective Cafe is tucked in between factories in the northern part of Seongsu. [PARK SANG-MOON] 

[ABOUT TOWN]: North Seongsu

Seoul is often viewed as a modern, trendy metropolis filled with high-rise buildings, bright billboards and zooming subways. But behind its stylish facade is a more down-to-earth, people's place that goes less noticed. Depending on the part of the city, busy-working locals find solace and joy in things such as sizzling pork belly in an intimate barbecue restaurant, soju shots under a tent, coffee on the roof of a decades-old building and walks along the city's hidden trails. Each dong, or neighborhood, has its own history and remnants of the times before its rapid development, making Seoul a checkerboard of cultures and atmospheres. In this series, the Korea JoongAng Daily looks at both the past and the present of Seoul's neighborhoods and recommends how to best spend a day there like a local: What to see, where to eat.

Seongsu is a neighborhood that speaks for itself.

A towering Dior flagship, a five-story Olive Young, not one, not two, but at least five Musinsa shops packed within a few blocks and the buttery aroma of freshly baked salt bread wafting through the streets. These are some signature characteristics of Seongsu-dong: a flashy, bustling district teeming with fashionistas and youthful energy.

But this is only a depiction of the southern part of the neighborhood. The northern section, dubbed "Buk Seongsu,” with buk meaning north in Korean, remains largely untouched by the rapid commercialization affecting its southern counterpart.

The area, roughly north of the Seongsu Station overpass, has retained much of its industrial identity established in the 1960s. It boasts printing houses, machinery shops and car repairs still in full operation.

And it is perhaps this slower, more grounded atmosphere that is increasingly drawing in locals, remote workers and trend-savvy tourists looking to avoid the usual hot spots. 

The Korea JoongAng Daily presents an itinerary that explores the understated half of Seoul’s trendiest neighborhood. But be warned: This side of town is slower, but not quieter. The maze of alleyways is constantly filled with the clatter of construction, brick-conveying forklifts and cement dust.

Seongsu-dong is a mixture of factories and red-brick detached houses. [JIN EUN-SOO] 

Seongsu's industrial past

Unlike other industrial neighborhoods in Seoul, which were built partially through government initiatives, Seongsu-dong was more organically formed. From the 1960s onward, factory owners struggling to make ends meet in the expensive central area of Seoul fled to Seongsu-dong for a fresh start. Back then only a collection of farmlands on what was considered the fringes of Seoul, Seongsu-dong had cheap land prices and an abundant work force nearby. The newcomers built factories as well as their homes, forming a unique mixture of factories and detached houses. The adjacent Han River and Jungnang Stream also made the neighborhood convenient for shipping logistics. It was significantly downsized after the IMF in 1997, but mid-sized blue-collar facilities such as car repairs and print shops are still standing. Whether due to spillover from the saturated southern part of Seongsu-dong or simply the innate charm of the northern area itself, cafes, diners and creative ateliers have been popping up in recent years.

A signature grilled octopus dish at WIP Seongsu paired with Romanesco sauce and potatoes [JIN EUN-SOO] 

All-day diner WIP Seongsu

A brunch place and a natural wine bar at the same time, this Brooklyn loft-style eatery is tucked away in an old alley just behind a line of car repair centers on the main road. One of the earliest pioneers to settle down in the neighborhood in 2020, its atmosphere encapsulates the essence of Buk Seongsu with exposed ceilings and concrete floors, but also exudes warmth due to ample sunlight beaming in through wide windows and a generous number of plants and flowers scattered throughout. The menu seems standard at first glance, with pastas and steaks as key offerings, but each dish is spiced up with a creative kick. The Iberico bone steak is plated with coriander salad and fish sauce for a balanced, refreshing taste and comes with a side of homemade apple and beet puree. The Salsiccia oil pasta is another uncommon menu item. The slightly pungent aroma unique to the Italian sausage is perfectly paired with a glass of chilled white wine. The abalone risotto made with sticky rice and barley has a pleasantly chewy texture, but what truly gives it character is a pinch of lemon zest. The signature grilled octopus dish with Romesco sauce is a must-try as well.

Songjeong Embankment Road near Jungnang Stream serves as a shaded reprieve during summer. [JIN EUN-SOO]  

A walk by Jungnang Stream

A 10-minute walk from WIP will bring you to a trail alongside Jungnang Stream called Songjeong Embankment Road, a go-to spot for Seongsu residents. The road is both a hidden gem for viewing cherry blossoms in spring and a leafy hideout from the sun in summer. Just half a step down from the embankment path lies a red clay trail great for walking on barefoot, a health practice trendy among Korea's elderly population. Be mindful of the trail exits because they are few and far in between. Miss one and your next opportunity to leave might be a couple hundred meters away.

Inside the Subjective Cafe, which has exposed concrete ceilings and walls [PARK SANG-MOON]  

Sip coffee, work and relax

Lining the Songjeong Embankment Road is a row of low-slung, single-unit factories specializing in metal and steel processing. Many operate with their shutters open, exposing passerby to stray sparks and the smell of burning steel. Tucked in between two such factories is the Subjective Cafe, part of a multipurpose space that hosts pop-ups, photo shoots and other events. The minimalist white interior, exposed concrete walls and high ceiling commonly found in warehouses give somewhat of a cold first impression, but the atmosphere is anything but. The staff is welcoming and the space is designed with remote workers in mind. Each table is equipped with power outlets, a rare sight in Korea except for in select franchises. Especially in busy neighborhoods like Seongsu where some cafes have a two-hour time limit, this gesture of generosity stands out. In addition to coffee, ade and tea, which are already up to standard, the Subjective Cafe also offers a selection of bottled beer and wine for those dropping by to chill.

An iced Americano served at Bonzrr cafe [JIN EUN-SOO]  

Various other cafes in the area are also worth visiting. Maat Coffee Brewers serves non-coffee items such as a Jirisan mugwort latte alongside its signature Einspanner. Once a mom-and-pop supermarket, the remodeled venue stands out with its bright yellow exterior on an otherwise monotonous street. Peer Coffee, another star roastery with beginnings in Seongsu-dong, is famous for its specialty brews and pour-overs. Its popularity is no secret — other locations have already opened throughout Seoul and their coffee beans can be bought online. Another notable mention is Bonzrr, which acts as both a cafe and an exhibition venue. The industrial style interior and large selection of green plants scream Instagram, but the coffee is more than just social media-worthy: It tastes incredible.

Domansa is a community space nestled in the northern part of Seongsu-dong. [PARK SANG-MOON]  

Inside Domansa which is styled as a sarangbang, where locals gather to mingle and read books [PARK SANG-MOON] 

Vintage furniture, clothes and community

Exploring Buk Seongsu is an odd experience. While the area is mostly redbrick detached homes, you might stumble upon a massive construction site with the turn of a corner, then find, only a block away, a quiet alleyway lined with old concrete buildings housing both laundromats and hipster cafes.

In one of these quiet alleys sits a unique space called Domansa, where the door is often left open with no one inside. A modern red neon sign hangs on a weathered concrete wall, and beneath it are pyeongsang (a traditional Korean wooden platform) and books related to the neighborhood. The venue is currently used as a communal cultural space where people can read and mingle. It also hosts various exhibitions, pop-ups and events on occasion. The second floor of the two-story building used to house a Chinese restaurant and a shoe factory, now both closed. Domansa offers factory and neighborhood tours, the schedules of which can be found on its Instagram.

Markt Fahrt is a vintage furniture shop selling leather sofas and armchairs mostly sourced from Europe. [JIN EUN-SOO]  

Nearby, at vintage furniture shop Markt Fahrt, a curated selection of leather sofas and armchairs from Europe is on display. Each piece is unique in design and texture. Here, you can find vintage Hermes dishware or wooden cabinets that appear to have arrived directly from Paris's Vanve flea market. Even if you aren't on the market for new furniture, you can still have a visually delightful experience. Visits are reservation only, by Naver or phone call.

A few blocks away, you'll find a perfume atelier called Hippocampus in the basement of yet another red brick building. It's easy to miss, marked only by a modest "H" sign on the exterior. Under the guidance of the atelier's director, visitors can explore and create scents to one's liking among the dark wooden tables of the cozy, dimly lit venue. A dozen or so scents created by the director, going by names like "Me Time" and "Nova,” are also on display and available for purchase.

Soinsu Seoul is a gopchang (grilled intestine) place near Ttukseom Station, Line No. 2. [JIN EUN-SOO]  

Seoul's soul food

Nobody would imagine such a packed full-day itinerary for this part of town, but there is surprisingly room for one more stop. Walk for 10 minutes following the overpass toward Ttukseom Station and you'll arrive at Soinsu Seoul, a decent gopchang (grilled intestine) restaurant. Tucked underneath the overpass, this diner gently rattles whenever a train passes overhead. Assorted grilled gopchang, their signature menu, is a must. It is served pre-grilled with seasoned chives and potatoes. The homemade soy sauce with chopped onions and green peppers adds a special touch. A barbecue restaurant like this always serves up some mouthwatering sides. The chili beef intestine soup, which includes tripe and vegetables, is highly recommended as comfort food. This place is already well known among locals as well as tourists. On a Friday evening at 7 p.m., there was a good mix of office workers in for a hoesik (after-work dinner) as well as couples and tourists all down for some good gopchang.

Assorted grilled gopchang for two at Soinsu Seoul [JIN EUN-SOO]  

Reference
Written by JIN EUN-SOO [jin.eunsoo@joongang.co.kr]
Provided by Korea JoongAng Daily

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