Seaside vistas, Zen and plenty of great food: Jangheung's bucolic charms soothe the world-weary traveler

Sodeung Island [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

JANGHEUNG, South Jeolla — Ask a Korean what comes to mind when they hear Jangheung, a small town nestled on the coast of southwest Korea, and you'll get all kinds of answers — or sometimes, just a blank stare.

Some might mention its local specialty, hanwoo, or Korean beef, while bookworms might recognize it as the hometown of writer Han Seung-won, father of Nobel Prize winner Han Kang. Festivalgoers will think of its summer water festival, often dubbed the “Water Bomb of South Jeolla.”

They’re all valid takes. But if you asked this reporter — a Gen Z used to the hyper-paced, chaotic life of Seoul who recently spent two days there — she'd call it Korea's green spine. Stretching between mountains, ocean and farmland, it felt like the country’s backbone of calm — where nature isn’t just scenery, but a way of life. Quiet, lush, unhurried — it was the version of Korea she had always loved, but never truly experienced.

Only a handful of other tourists were seen during the trip, and selfishly, it’s better that way. It’s the empty roads, enjoying tasty local meals without waiting lists and the small, beautiful moments — yellow flowers blooming along the roadside, ocean views suddenly appearing as you drive and greenery in every direction — that truly make Jangheung shine.

And thanks to its clean, well-preserved environment, with both lush forests and the sea nearby, Jangheung also offers premium mountain and seafood delicacies you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.

But the town isn't just Zen and nature walks. It has a playful side too. Take Papillion Zip, a revamped prison-turned-experience center that opens to the public next month — the very prison where Park Yeon-jin, the villain in Netflix’s “The Glory” (2022), was locked up, and the filming site for tvN’s hit drama series “Prison Playbook” (2017). 

Just keep in mind that the county spans 618 square kilometers (238.6 square miles) — a bit larger than Seoul — and public transportation is limited (this writer saw only a few public buses in two days). This isn’t a place for checklist-style sightseeing, but for slow, scenic drives.

This two-day healing itinerary through Jangheung offers a refreshing escape. Whether or not you think you need healing, you’ll find it here.

To get to Jangheung from Seoul, you can take either an express bus or a KTX train. Take an express bus from Central City Terminal in southern Seoul to Gwangju U-Square Terminal, then transfer to an intercity bus to Jangheung Intercity Bus Terminal. For the KTX, take the train from Yongsan Station in central Seoul to Gwangju-Songjeong Station, then transfer to Gwangju Central Bus Terminal by local bus and take an intercity bus to Jangheung. It is approximately a five-hour travel. Or, you can rent a car at Naju Station and enjoy a drive through Jangheung.

If you're planning a day trip from nearby cities: From Busan, take an intercity bus from Busan West Intercity Bus Terminal to Jangheung Intercity Bus Terminal. It also takes approximately five hours. From Yeosu, take an intercity bus from Yeosu Central Terminal. From Jeonju, take an express bus from Jeonju Express Terminal to Gwangju U-Square, then transfer to an intercity bus to Jangheung terminal. 

DAY 1: Eel, poems and forest therapy

Pike Eel Shabu-Shabu [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Pike eel shabu-shabu

A good trip should start with a local specialty — and this one started strong. For your first meal in Jangheung, try one of its signature dishes, pike eel shabu-shabu, a rarity even for many Koreans.

First you get a savory broth made from herbs like deer antler, jujube and kalopanax. Once it starts to boil, dip a bite-sized piece of eel into the broth for five seconds. It will curl into a delicate white flower — beautiful, yet strangely goosebump-inducing.

Pairing it with thinly sliced raw onions and chives topped with ssamjang (a mix of gochujang and soy bean paste) is highly recommended. Crunchy, soft, spicy — the kind of combo that sneaks back into your thoughts every now and then.

Pike eel paired with thinly sliced raw onion and chives, topped with ssamjang [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

The eel, caught off Yeodaji Beach — named Korea’s cleanest mudflat by the Korea Tourism Organization — is soft with a clean flavor, though it can be pricey. A two-person small set costs around 110,000 won ($80). Wrap the meal with udon (2,000 won) boiled in the leftover broth, or porridge (3,000 won). That’s the real finisher.

YeodajihoeMaeul
Location: 158, Hanseungwonsanchaek-gil, Anyang-myeon, Jangheung County
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily (closed on the first and third Mondays)

Han Seung-won Literary Trail [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Han Seung-won literary trail

Still warm from the broth and sunlight, you should head down to nearby Yeodaji Beach for a walk along the Han Seung-won Literary Trail. Han, a beloved writer and the father of 2024 Novelist Han Kang, is a native of Jangheung and currently resides in a village nearby. 

While the 85-year-old author is best known for his fiction like “Aje aje bara-aje” (1985) and “The Life of Dasan” (2008), it’s his poetry that takes center stage here. Some 20 of his poems are engraved on stones placed along the 600-meter (nearly 2,000 feet) trail.

Reading them with the ocean as your backdrop feels undeniably cool — the kind of moment the MZ generation might call peak healing, or even “hip.” Soaking in poetry with the salty sea breeze in your hair — doesn’t the thought alone make you feel instantly trendier?

Some of the engravings are weathered and a little tough to read, but the county head said renovations are planned — a part of a broader effort to promote Jangheung as a literary hub. The county is also home to renowned writers Yi Cheong-jun (1939-2008) and Song Gi-sook (1935-2021).

Location: Yulsan Village, Anyang-myeon, Jangheung County 

Sodeung Island [JANGHEUNG COUNTYOFFICE] 

Sodeung Island

Let the serenity carry you to Sodeung Island, a tiny islet just off the peaceful Nampo village. The name “Sodeung” means “turning off the light” in Korean, and its name comes from an old tale — villagers once lit lamps here to guide their loved ones safely back from the sea at night.

The island is walkable during low tide — which, conveniently, is most of the day. If you're expecting something like Sebit Island or Nodeul Island in Seoul, or even Jeju Island, you might be disappointed at first glance. It’s not glamorous — it’s really small. But come with an open mind and a blank sketchbook. How often do you get to walk straight to an island, with no boat required and almost no one else around?

Sodeung Island Dulle trail [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Take a stroll along the recently built trail nearby, which offers a different perspective of the island from both the side and above. But be warned. There’s little to no shade. Bring a hat, sunglasses or umbrella — anything to shield yourself from the sun.

Location: 225, Sangbal-ri , Yongsan-myeon, Jangheung County

Cheongwansan National Recreation Forest

Just as the sun begins to dip behind the mountains, head to Cheongwansan National Recreation Forest. Mount Cheongwan, standing at 723 meters, is one of the five famed mountains in Jeolla, known for its bizarre rock formations, camellia forests that bloom in Spring and silver grass fields in September.

The mountain itself is impressive — packed with pine, cypress and oak trees, accompanied by birds chirping in the background. But what stands out most are the tall, perfectly aligned trees lining the trail. There’s really something about tall, orderly trees that makes your worries dissipate.

Visit after rain if you can. The scent of the earth intensifies and the air stays cool, making the trail a full-sensory experience. The forest, which opened in 1995, also includes cabins, playgrounds, splash zones and a bonfire field. Entry is just 1,000 won for adults.

Location: 842-1150, Chilgwan-ro, Gwansan-eup, Jangheung County 

Jangheung samhap: a trio of hanwoo, or Korean beef, shiitake mushrooms and pen shell [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Jangheung samhap

Wrap up your day with Jangheung samhap — a trio of hanwoo, shiitake mushrooms and pen shell scallops. Lightly grill all three and eat them together with ssamjang. It’s chewy, savory, soft — the flavors melt together so perfectly you might find yourself wondering why you had never tried this combination before.

Fun facts: Jangheung has more cows than people. As of 2023, the population was around 35,000, while the county raised over 61,000 cows. Its shiitake mushrooms grow in sea breeze and mist, while Jangheung supplies 70 to 80 percent of Korea’s pen shell scallops. These facts themselves explain the incredible flavor of their combination.  

Some locals buy their beef separately from a butcher and pay a small fee for the full table setup, ordering mushrooms and pen shell scallops separately to enjoy this signature combination.

Chirak
Location: 36, Mullebangatgan-gil, Jangheung-eup, Jangheung County
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily (closed on the second and fourth Sundays) 

Day 2: Mountains, temples and fun

A restaurant staff member boils someori gukbap, or cow head soup, in a large pot. [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Someori gukbap — cow's head soup

To start the day with a hearty breakfast, head to Jeongnamjin Saturday Market — despite its name, many of its restaurants are open on weekdays, too — and try a bowl of someori gukbap (cow's head soup). The name might sound a bit intimidating, but trust this reporter and give it a try. Gukbap, a rich meat broth served with rice, is considered soul food by many in Korea — and if it’s served at a local market, you know it will be hearty and authentic.

Straight from a huge boiling pot, the flavor is deep, rich, and far more savory, tender and hearty — with thick broth and big chunks — compared to the versions sold in big cities, thanks to Jangheung’s thriving hanwoo. It barely left room for any rice.

Hallane
Location: 11, Toyosijang 1-gil, Jangheung-eup, Jangheung County
Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily (closed Mondays) 

A visitor takes in the view at Borimsa Temple. [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Borimsa Temple

Temples are inherently peaceful, but Borimsa takes serenity to another level.

Tucked deep in Mount Gaji, the only sounds are the soft clang of a bell swaying in the breeze and bird chirping through the trees — not just any chirping, but the kind you’ve only imagined as the perfect sound of nature — especially during moments when no meditation is taking place. It’s the perfect soundtrack for taking in the intricate details of the temple’s architecture and its national treasures, including stone pagodas, lanterns and an iron statue of Vairocana Buddha.

Here, you feel even protected — perhaps by the fierce-looking guardian deities of the west who stand to watch over the grounds.

Temple workers grind and dry steamed tea leaves. [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

If you’re lucky, you might catch temple workers hand-making tea — steaming, grinding and drying them on-site. Just beyond that area, wild green tea plants grow, and it’s from here that the temple harvests its tea leaves. If you’re thinking of exploring the trail, don’t — it hasn’t been maintained for quite some time.

Location: 224, Borimsa-ro, Yuchi-myeon, Jangheung County

Dweonjang mulhoe [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Doenjang Mulhoe

For lunch, go for something light yet satisfying — doenjang mulhoe, a local twist on cold raw fish soup. Instead of the usual gochujang (fermented red chili paste). It’s made with fermented soybean paste.

It comes served in a large iron bowl filled with ice, thinly sliced flatfish and raw sea bass. Just looking at it cools you down. Though both rice and noodles are provided, the soup pairs better with noodles.

If you’re used to the typical spicy version with gochujang, you might be skeptical at first, but you wouldn't notice a huge difference in flavor.

ShindeulmoeBada
Location: 16, Hoejinjungang-gil, Hoejin-myeon, Jangheung County
Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily 

Jangheung 126 Tower [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Jangheung 126 Tower

Want a full view of Jangheung — ocean, mountains and crop fields all in one frame? Or better, a cup of coffee at a cafe with a view that’s actually worth the drive? Head to Jangheung 126 Tower, a 46-meter-tall observatory that offers both.

For just 2,000 won — about one-fifteenth the price of Seoul Sky at the top of Lotte World Tower — visitors get access to a ninth-floor cafe with a sweeping panorama, and yes, the 10th-floor observatory too. No elbowing for space, no waiting in line for that perfect photo. But honestly, it’s the cafe you are here for.

The view easily beats any so-called “view cafe” on the outskirts of Seoul — and without the overpriced, often underwhelming drinks.

Location: Samsan-ri, Gwansan-eup, Jangheung County
Hours: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (winter), 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. (summer) 

A person behind prison bars made of flexible material at Papillon Zip [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFFICE] 

Papillion Zip — former Jangheung Prison

Save the fun for last. One of Jangheung’s most unexpected — and oddly thrilling — spots is Papillion Zip, a former prison turned experience center.

Built in 1974 and closed in 2015, this prison has since made a name for itself as a filming location, starring in over 70 dramas and movies.

Now, it's opening to the public this July with immersive exhibits: try on vintage prison uniforms, sit in visitation rooms from different decades and view handmade items from former inmates, from DIY game cards to tattoo machines. 

Film set at Papillon Zip, the former Jangheung Prison [JANGHEUNG COUNTY OFICE] 

Visitors can also witness the filming sites — though they are so eerie, you don’t want to be left alone. There will also be a crew rest space, with a wall where actors can leave notes for fans who will visit in the future.

The space also serves as a cultural hub for locals, with community movie nights held in its mini theater.

Location: 98, Jangheung-ro, Jangheung-eup, Jangheung County

Reference
Written by WOO JI-WON [woo.jiwon@joongang.co.kr]
Provided by Korea JoongAng Daily

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